Sunday, August 28, 2011

Fall Tomatoes

Mount Tomato!  Built atop the remains of unfinished compost topped by chipped oak tree parts.  Pots planted about half deep, with the idea the roots can stretch into the goodness below.  And no, the pile isn't hot.  Well, maybe deep down inside, but not within the first foot.

When life deals you the dieing oak tree card - build Mount Tomato!   The stump there in the background?  That would be the decaying oak tree.  The planter on top is getting filled up with strawberry plants I'm transplanting from the back section of the garden.  Maybe this way the dang worms will stay out of my fruit long enough for me to get to it first.

After I had the pots in place, I lined the whole area with cardboard and newspaper then topped with pine shavings.  Weed control.  The sweet potato vines are slowly making their way around the pots.

After loosing the ink on the spring tomato plant tags and not knowing what was what, I'm double prepared this season.  PENCIL on the plant tags and a labeled diagram.

I'm honored to try some new (to me) varieties this fall thanks to the generosity of  GW's Tom, Amber and Silvia.  And a round robin exchange.

I've also got tomatoes started along my wrought iron railing.  Upper left corner of this photo.  Green Zebra and Green Zebra.  An Egg Yolk Cherry, Solar Fire and Dwarf Wild Fred.  

The tomatoes started in July are for the most part doing well.  Lost a few to dampening off.  The seeds I started in August are struggling.  Bugs I think.  They just aren't big enough to fend off the bug/heat combo onslaught.  It's really too late to start any more I think.  mid to late November is probably the end of tomato season here.

Temperature and Humidity. Daytime temperatures above 90°F and night temperatures above 70°F result in reduced flowering and fruit set. There is considerable evidence that night temperature is the critical factor in setting tomato fruit, the optimal range being 59° to 68°F. With night temperatures much below or above this critical range, fruiting is reduced or absent. Low temperatures reduce the production and viability of pollen. High temperature, especially if accompanied by low humidity and moisture, hinders fruit set through failure in pollination and/or fertilization.  Source.

Guess I could visit the nursery and add a few.  I've also got tomatoes ready to go in the NE garden under the trellis as soon as they grow up a bit more.  And some dwarf/patio in pots that will go into full sun in a bit.  Dwarf Wild Fred and Lime Green Salad.  I'm getting some fruit set on Red Pear.  The cherry tomatoes and the Solar Fire are blooming but not yet setting fruit.

The tomatoes in the raised bed in the parking pad have about half survived summer.  Of course, I don't really know what they are.  See note about faded plant tags.  Don't use permanent markers for outside plant tags.  Just sayin'.  The Black from Tula in the big pot along the back fence is looking pretty happy about now.  Will be nice to see it fruit.  And a surprise.

Here's to tomatoes in our near future.  Oh, and yes I'm growing more of the Camparti F2 saved seed from the grocer.  Those were too good and plentiful to not grow again.

Hey - this coming weekend will be our first year edible garden birthday.  I'll have to see what I can find in the garden to celebrate!

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